The Great Frame Debate: Deep vs. Medium Supers
Beekeepers are split into two camps: team deep and team medium. It’s not just about box size—it’s about philosophy, physical labor, and hive management. Deep frames (9 ⅝”) are the classic standard. They mimic the natural cavity size bees prefer, offering ample space for a strong brood nest. The upside? Fewer boxes to manage for the brood chamber. The downside? A full deep honey super can weigh over 80 lbs (36 kg), making harvest a back-breaking endeavor. This is why medium frames (6 ⅝”) have surged in popularity. A full medium super weighs a more manageable 40-50 lbs (18-23 kg). The trade-off is more boxes to lift and inspect. For commercial operators and beekeepers with physical limitations, mediums are a clear winner. Hobbyists with a few hives might stick with deeps for the brood box and use mediums for honey supers, creating a more modular, weight-friendly system.
Foundationless Beekeeping: Going Back to Nature
Foundationless frames are exactly what they sound like: empty frames with just a starter strip of wood or wax at the top. This method is the purest form of natural beekeeping. It allows bees to build comb entirely to their own specifications, which typically means a mix of worker and drone cells based on the colony’s current needs. Proponents argue this fosters healthier bees with natural cell size and reduces the chemical load from foundation. The major challenge is cross-comb. Without a guide, bees can build bridges between frames, making inspections and honey harvesting a sticky, destructive mess. It requires meticulous management, frequent inspections in the early stages, and a very steady hand during hive manipulations. This method is best for experienced beekeepers focused on treatment-free, natural philosophies who don’t mind the extra time commitment.
Wax-Coated Foundations: The Beekeeper’s Control
Wax-coated plastic or wood-backed foundations provide a guide for bees to build straight, manageable comb. This is the standard for most hobbyist and commercial beekeeping because it saves time and ensures efficiency. The bees draw out the comb faster because they have a template, which can lead to earlier honey production. It virtually eliminates the risk of cross-comb, making inspections and extracting honey clean and simple. The foundation provides structural integrity, so the comb is less likely to break during hot weather or during transport for migratory beekeeping. The downside is cost—outfitting an entire hive with quality foundation is an upfront investment. There’s also debate about the exact cell size imprinted on the foundation and whether it encourages Varroa mite proliferation. For beekeepers focused on productivity, ease of management, and honey yields, foundation is the way to go.
Decision Matrix: Choosing Your Frame & Foundation
| Beekeeper Profile | Ideal Frame Size | Ideal Foundation Type | Key Reasoning |
|---|---|---|---|
| Backyard Hobbyist | Deep Brood, Medium Honey | Wax-Coated Plastic | Manages weight at harvest, enjoys easier inspections. |
| Commercial Producer | Mostly Mediums | Wax-Coated Plastic | Standardization, weight safety for crews, efficiency. |
| Treatment-Free Naturalist | Deep or Medium | Foundationless | Prioritizes natural comb and cell size over convenience. |
| New Beginner | Deep Brood, Medium Honey | Wax-Coated Plastic | Reduces variables and failure points while learning. |
Cost & Labor Comparison
| Factor | Deep Frames | Medium Frames | Foundationless | Wax-Coated |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Upfront Cost per Frame | $ | $ | $ (Lowest) | $$ (Highest) |
| Weight When Full | 80-90 lbs (36-41 kg) | 40-50 lbs (18-23 kg) | N/A | N/A |
| Harvest Labor Intensity | High | Moderate | High (Risk of comb damage) | Low |
| Inspection Difficulty | Low (Fewer boxes) | Moderate (More boxes) | High (Risk of cross-comb) | Low |
| Combined Recommendation | Use for brood chamber. | Use for honey supers. | Use if committed to natural beekeeping. | Use for reliability and ease. |
Making the Right Choice for Your Apiary
Your choice ultimately depends on your goals, physical ability, and management style. Don’t feel locked into one system. Many beekeepers run hybrid setups: deep brood boxes with a combination of foundationless frames (to allow for natural drone brood and mite management) and wax-coated frames in the honey supers for perfectly straight comb that fits an extractor. The best advice is to start standard—with wax-coated foundations in a mix of deep and medium boxes—and then experiment with a single foundationless frame in a strong hive to see if the natural approach appeals to you before committing your entire apiary.
Q&A: Beekeeping Frame FAQ
Q: Can I mix deep and medium frames in the same box?
A: Absolutely not. The boxes themselves are different sizes. A deep box holds deep frames; a medium box holds medium frames. You cannot mix frame sizes within a single box. You can, however, stack a medium honey super on top of a deep brood box.
Q: Will bees draw out foundationless comb in a honey super?
A: Yes, but they are more likely to do it well during a strong nectar flow. During a weak flow, they may be slow to draw out foundationless comb in the supers, as their priority is the brood nest. Using a foundation in the supers can encourage faster honey storage.
Q: Is there a weight difference between foundationless and wax-coated frames?
A: Yes, but it’s minimal. A fully drawn foundationless frame might be very slightly lighter because the bees can build comb with a slightly thinner wax structure than what is provided by a plastic foundation. The difference is negligible compared to the weight of the honey itself.
Q: What’s the best option for a Warre or Top-Bar Hive?
A: These hive designs are inherently foundationless. They rely on the bees building natural comb from a top bar or a starter strip. The deep vs. medium debate is specific to the Langstroth hive system, which uses standardized, removable frames.